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Nov 2013 - St. Vincent's Trip

Tuesday, May 26, 2015

Reflections on Last Week at St Vincent's and our Amazing Team

Refreshed after a shower, I am sitting in the guest house listening to the nightly rainstorm.  Haiti rain is like no other rain I have experienced.  It comes suddenly and loudly, with crashing thunder and torrents of water.  Sort of like a summer storm in Memphis, except every night it's the same.  Thunder, then the power goes out, then we listen to the downpour. The fans stop spinning, but the wind from the storm blows through the windows and keeps us "mostly" cooled off.

We work so hard and exhaust ourselves during the week at St Vincents, that I often dont get to say to my team members how much I value their time and sacrifice.  At the end of the day its all we can do to eat dinner, take a (cold)shower and withdraw into our selves or our Ipads to regroup for the next day. Not to mention the thousand items we want to remember to get done the next day.
Now that I am vacationing in this beautiful place, I have time to reflect on the many members of our team and what they did for our ministry and the children of St Vincents.

Mimi and Tim, thank you for your dear hearts and willingness to do anything and everything I asked you to do.  Mimi, you asked me before the trip what a retired first grade teacher could do on a medical mission trip.  I think you learned quickly that it takes an entire team to get kids lined up, weigh them, help get their correct names and keep them calm and entertained while waiting to see the doctor.  You blessed us all with your gentle manner and somehow always looked clean and stylish in the Haitian heat!  Tim, what can I say except thank you for being a willing dental assistant to our incredible dental team.  And your first aid skills on the overheated bus were very important! A fellow Texan, you made yourself invaluable.

Brittany brought another pharmacist, Katie, and together they counted, among other things,  about 1500 ibuprofen, reminded me not to prescribe two similar BP meds, wrote out each and every label in Kreyol and explained medication directions carefully to about 50 people.  In Kreyol. And sign language, with Sheryes help. What a gift for me to have confidence in the careful dispensing of medication and know that we did our absolute best to make sure each patient understood their medication

Minda, Sarah and Sonya worked with the children painting and drawing.  This is a treat for the children as well as some of the adults, to create something beautiful.  Thank you for bringing all the supplies and your creative encouragement.  Thank you for working in that hot little classroom all day.  None of you ever complained, not even once.

Sonya and Hana, her daughter, also helped me in the clinic. Hana, thank you for being willing to help anyone and everyone and not complaining when you were sent three different places at once. Thank you for accepting my teaching of a few " medical tricks". I enjoy teaching, and its fun to have a student who listens and learns quickly!

Sonya, I always enjoy being on a team with you. Your quick wit and astute observations always make me laugh!  Teams are much more fun when youre around.

Ashley quietly and cheerfully did the least favorite job of all, pricking the kids' fingers to check their iron count.  John has managed to teach Ashley this important skill, so he doesnt have to do it anymore!  That leaves him "free time" to find the keys, open the clinic room and pharmacy, unpack all the supplies for the clinic, find the kids when its time to leave their classroom and come down for clinic, find a working power supply, locate clean water or send someone to buy some so he can refill our water bottles all day, and take blood pressures on 180 patients.  Surrounded by  screaming children. Oh, and find me when Frenel comes around, or another of my favorite students.

At the start of this parade is Vickie Baselski, "Mama Vickie" who to my great delight has made it her mission in life to keep us organized.  Thanks be to God.  When asked if she has any tape, for example, she responds, "scotch tape, masking tape or duct tape?". How does she DO that?
She produces a manila envelope when asked for something to keep loose papers in.  She has medications for every emergency.  She's like the porter in those old Hollywood movies that carries the silver tea service into the jungle so the British Captain can have his morning tea.  It gets to be a team game, to see if we can ask for something Vickie doesnt have.

My partner in the clinic was Dr Judy, retired from St Judes but not from offering her medical skills in the service of others.  Brittany and John agreed she is the best provider we've ever had on a trip.  She was not overwhelmed by the difficult working conditions (occasional fan, no light, deaf kids with no interpreter, no lab available other than hemoglobin, and 10 people in the same room speaking in different languages all at once).  She could quiet a screaming kid with a word or two, she found three new kids with heart murmurs who will be referred to a local cardiologist.  Thank you thank you thank you for helping me serve these children and keeping a smile on your face.

Sherye splits herself into 3 people on these trips.  This time she was not only interpreter for the medical clinic, she spent one day with the dentists and the entire week helping organize which classroom came next and avoiding duplication, or trying to.  This is her second of three trips to Haiti this summer so she has gone above and beyond by all measures.

My daughter Sienna is now one of our interpreters for Kreyol. I had hoped to show her some medical exam skills, but she was so busy interpreting for the children I couldnt pull her away.  To her credit, when I sent for her to come examine a patient with an interesting heart murmur, she declined because she didnt want to stop the flow of the clinic or interfere with what other people were doing.  I was proud of her for supporting the team above her own interests.

Phil Caldwell was our intrepid dentist, who braved sweltering heat and exasperating inconsistent transportation for the children to declare victory on Saturday after seeing 16 kids at the dental school.  Organizing anything in Haiti is a challenge, but he managed to enlist private dentists, and dental students, as well as the dean of the dental school, to provide much needed care for the St Vincents kids.  I still dont know how he pulled it off.  He told me it was all because of Phil Cloutier, the dental hygienist who came on our November 2014 team.  Phil "Junior" was the first person to bring dental care of any kind to the children since the earthquake of 2010.  I remember him telling me about the "sixty kids" who needed urgent dental care and that I wasnt sure at the time if that would happen.  But, convincing Dr Phil Caldwell to join our team, I now had two dental personnel, and together with Tim, the jeweler cum dental assistant, they did magical things this week.  Phil "Junior" is very persuasive and energetic, and supported "Dr Phil" so they could accomplish their work.  I believe they saw  50  or more patients this week all counted, filling cavities, extracting abscessed teeth and other things we doctors dont even like to think about!  Now that dental care is off and running, I hope we can keep bringing dental teams down in the future.

Lastly I must thank Drew, our deacon.  Drew first inspired (begged, pleaded, cajoled) me to come to Haiti in 2008.  He sits quietly with the children or holds them in his lap when they are frightened by the doctor.  His beaming grin begins at the airport in Memphis and continues through our exhausting week at St Vincents.  He provides spiritual support for our team members and a steady hand when one is needed.  Thank you Deacon Drew for your love in abundance and your example to us all of selfless service.

To all my team members, forgive me for unintended sharp remarks when I was tired and hot.  Thank you for the offers of a cooling face wipe or granola bar when I needed it   Thank you for coming with me to this heartbreaking place Drew calls "the Cathedral for children", and for giving up air conditioning, water pressure, comfortable beds, soft towels and knowing when things are supposed to happen.  I hope to see you all back in Haiti again.

VOYAGE Day #3

Coffee overlooking the sea
Morning coffee overlooking the bay at our hotel, listening to the crashing waves on the rocks below.  Sienna and I walked down to the beach after breakfast, but decided we did not want to swim. We preferred to go back into town to meet our gracious guide, Michel, for more touring of Jacmel.
We caught a ride into town with another group of Americans from Detroit, and met Michel at the hotel Florita.  Quick trip to the ATM and we were on our way!  Sienna had her eye on a  drapeau (sequined flag) she had seen the day before, with La Sirene beautifully created in bright colors.  
Unfortunately the gallery owner would not come down on his price, so we left it behind.  After a return visit to another gallery for a painting of Jacmel and the sea painted in the shape of a guitar, we again left empty handed as the price was over $300.  At that point Michel offered to take us to another gallery "where the prices are cheaper", but we would have to get there by moto-taxi.  In other words, on the back of a motorcycle!  What the heck, we said, and off we went.  Zooming through the streets with the wind on our faces was so much fun!

We found Wilbert Laurent in his house with all his paintings displayed, and enjoyed meeting the artist and hearing him talk aout his work.  Sienna finally settled on a painting of Carnaval and another of Jacmel and the sea.  Not to lose the advantage of two Americans in his gallery, Wilbert offered us any small painting for $25.  She chose a painting of donkeys (bourrik) drinking in the river.  All three paintings for $150, we considered quite a deal especially having met the artist in a hidden  alleyway reached by moto taxi, with wild hibiscus growing on the post and a child singing from the house next door.



Returning to Hotel Florita, we lunched on  grilled fish, plantains, picliz and Haitian spaghetti.  This usually has tomatoes and carrots, green pepper, some chicken.  I told Michel I wanted to eat whatever he recommended, and I was not disappointed with the blackened fish seasoned with lime juice.

After lunch Michel wanted to know, would we like to see Jacmel from the mountain, the same view that Sienna bought in her painting that morning?  Of course, we said, especially if it meant another ride on a moto-taxi!    A truly Haitian immersion experience.  Michel is very proud of his "village" of Jacmel, "La Bel Femme". We spoke all day today and yesterday only in Kreyol, and now I find Kreyol phrases filling my mind as I write. Apologies to my American readers.  Sienna is my tutor so that I say "Where are we now?" instead of "Where we here?" and other grammatical faux-pas.

Saying "orevwa" (goodbye) to Michel was only possible with promises to return and bring our friends to experience his beautiful "village". 

Tonight we are resting at the guest house in Port au Prince, for tomorrows 6 hour bus ride to Cap Haitian. Learning to have no expectations about anything, we dont know if the "Bus Sans Souci" is a tap tap or an air-conditioned luxury bus.  Probably somewhere in between.  Whatever happens, we feel safe and privileged to be enjoying this amazing country in so many ways new to us.

VOYAGE Day #2

Last time we came to Jacmel I remember a terrifying ride through the mountains, but this trip was pleasant and completed in exactly two hours.  We complimented our driver, Geffrard, for not scaring us to death!  Jacmel looks a lot like New Orleans, Sienna kept saying all day.  There are mosaic tiles decorating many walkways and walls, and historic buildings which have been restored since the earthquake.  Artisan galleries filled with treasures!  Our guide, Michel, was pleased that both of us speak Kreyol, and promosed to speak only Kreyol the rest of the day.  Haitians are very kind and generous to visitors; he told me if I live in Jacmel for one month I will speak Kreyol better than him!  Pa Vre!  Not true!  But it made me happy anyway.

All around Jacmel the land is farmed, with abundance of mango, plantains, coconut, cacao.  Michel told us the people have plenty of food but no money.  He hopes that tourism will continue to come to Jacmel.  It is certainly a lovely city, safe to walk around in, if a little HOT in the afternoon sun!
After a refreshing Coca Cola ( made with sugar cane, absolutely delicious and ice cold) our driver took us to Bassin Bleu.  This is a series of three waterfalls. Getting there was an off road adventure, with gravel or dirt roads filled with potholes.  At one point we drove into a lake.  I am not kidding.  Folks come to this lake, which turns out to be only 8 inches deep, to wash their motorcycles, their cars and their clothing.  We saw women laying out their newly washed clothes on the rocks.  Haitian laundrymat and car wash combined!

After that mildly terrifying experience we climbed a steep road (I use that term conditionally) with hairpin turns up the mountainside to reach the village of Bassin Bleu.  Leaving the van, we asked about changing our clothes into our bathing suits.  "There will be a changing station at the falls" we were told.  Sienna and I both speak Kreyol, and we are certain that is what they said.  More on that later
Its about a 3/4 mile hike to the first "basin".  As they say in the hiking guides, "a strenuous climb".  The path is covered in stones part of the way, littered with mangoes which give off a sweet smell as you walk.  At one point one of our two guides picked up a rope.  I asked Sienna, I wonder what that rope is for?  I could only imagine.  Reaching the final "basin", the two guides attached the rope to the top of a cliff and indicated to Sienna to climb down.   Right.  We could not see the cliff face, only a sheer drop down to the rocks below.  I am eternally grateful to my daughter for going first!  She held onto the rope, Seville (the guide) climbed down ahead of her and showed her where to put her feet, and over the cliff she went, out of my sight.  She kept hollering reassurances to me that "really, its not that bad, Mom!". Then it was time for the old lady.  May I say rock climbing has never been one of my skills. Yet with the gentle but firm assistance of the two guides, I made it in one piece to the bottom of the cliff.

Here we could see the waterfall and the catch basin, magnificent.  And....where do we change our clothes.  Right here, of course!  Standing on the rocks.  Great.  No shame, Sienna says, we're in Haiti.  Yep.


Climbing into that cold water after that hot climb and life threatening descent down the cliff was incredible.  Sienna and I stayed there for over an hour, relishing the beauty and sheer incongruity of it all.  Our guide climbed to the top of the waterfall and jumped off into the basin below, for our viewing pleasure!  What a paradise is Haiti.  No wonder the French called it "the Pearl of the Antilles"



Returning to earth, as it were, we completed the reverse trip without incident.  I told Sienna I was giving our two guides a huge tip for not letting me fall to my death and for encouraging me all the way.  We were so exhilarated!

The final gift of the day was arriving at Hotel Cyvadier, which is directly on the ocean.  Waves crashing and beautiful vistas were the backdrop for our dinner of paella and shrimp creole.  Sienna said she wanted to go down to the beach after dinner, but we could barely finish our meal without falling face first into our plates.  We decided to visit the beach in the morning






Now I am having my morning coffee at the same table, with the lovely waitress Diana bringing me fresh mango and pineapple and banana.  Sienna is still sleeping, as it is only 6:30 AM.  Another day in the heartbreakingly beautiful paradise that is Haiti.

Sunday, May 24, 2015

Is it safe to travel to Haiti?

Since Sienna and I are travelling in Haiti this week, I want to share this article with my readers.


 Is it safe to travel to Haiti?



Waterfalls and Coca Cola

After a week working at St Vincents, the team is flying home to Tennessee, Connecticut, North Carolina, Illinois, Missouri and Ohio.  Sienna and I are living our dream of vacationing for a week in Haiti.  We have hoped to do this for 3-4 years and now its coming to pass.
Pere Sadoni, the priest in charge of St Vincents School, has always told me if you only know Port au Prince, you dont know Haiti.  Sort of like visitors to New York City who think they've seen America.

So today we embarked on our first adventure.  Met at the guest house by a driver and interpreter in an AIR CONDITIONED SUV, we drove 2 hours to Seau D'Eau.  This waterfall was created after the 1842 earthquake that damaged Sans Souci Palace in the north (we visit the palace later this week). The water was shocking cold and felt incredible, after our week of cooking in the heat and especially a two hour bus ride back from the beach yesterday. That ride was on St Vincents bus, which has an airconditioning unit but just cant keep up with 18 sweaty americans in 90 degree heat (and 84% humidity according to the internet weather report)






Look up Seau D'Eau for images and you will see why this special place draws tourists, particularly in July every year. Tradition has it that the Virgin Mary came here and now the place is sacred.  http://www.atlasobscura.com/places/sodo check this link

We climbed the falls, assisted by  handsome Haitians with Very Strong Grips who would not let the old lady fall down the rocks.  Afterwards we went to Woza hotel and had lunch with our interpreter; griot and diri ak pwa, with picliz. Thats fried pork with rice and beans, and what I call "Haitian cole slaw". Although today it was made with onions.  And very spicy! Yum yum!  Mixed with the rice and beans it tastes fabulous, washed down with Coca Cola bottled in Haiti and made with sugar cane

As my team is somewhere in the air over Atlanta airport about now, I am so thankful for all their hard work with the children this week.  Drew said this morning that the team gave their bodies and souls for the good work they did.  I hope they keep this beautiful country and her people in their hearts always.

Saturday, May 23, 2015

M&Ms and a Donkey Train

Tonight at the guest house we snack on peanut M&Ms and work on Zentangles with Sonya.  We all separate tomorrow to our homes in different states, after working side by side for a week in the heat and sharing our frustrations and joys together. We talked about the attachment we feel for the other team members and how we will miss everyone.

Today on the way to the beach, the bus had a flat tire. We all climbed out and waited on the side of the road while Alphonse fixed the tire, with the help of a few passersby.  Passing by was what someone called "the donkey train.". Women on donkeys, with filled baskets of mangoes, or coal, or palm fronds, or vegetables.  This is the sustaining element of the Haitian economy.  Women buy the produce in the mountains and bring it down into Port au Prince to sell.

Some of the other surprising or funny things we experienced this week included a sign on a local business that said Ave Maria Dipot Cimint.  Like many of the signs in Haiti, on businesses or painted on tap-taps, there are religious references.   In clinic yesterday Sherye taught us the sign for "hot flashes" so we could talk with a deaf patient about menopause.

Tonight several of us are staying up quite late, I think because we all know this is our last night.  Certainly we are all exhausted.   Everyone will be glad to see loved ones tomorrow and return to our air-conditioned lives with abundant clean water!  Leaving our Haitian friends and this beautiful country, however, feels like leaving my family behind.

Drew's birthday

Our last day at the school is always full of emotion.   We all have about 17 things on our list that we want to do that day, and usually we manage 8 or 10.   Things done and left undone, as we say in Confession.    We finish clinic and then John brings me at least 2-3 people who need to be seen. One of them was the principal of the school, so of course I took care of her!  Then the ladies who cook in the kitchen.  Not leaving St Vincent's without trying to do something for them as well.  Usually its just giving them Tylenol for headache and Zantac for acid reflux.  These meds we buy in the States at our pleasure, but here, where access to medication is limited, a bag of 30 Tylenol or ibuprofen is precious.
Professor Simeon always honors us on the last day by leading the blind bell choir to play for us.  (see You Tube video link on our website). This day was especially remarkable because it was
 Drew's birthday.   Dieumene and Mackenson led the children in singing Happy Birthday, with Mackenson on the guitar and Dieumene with her contralto voice.  We had to find Drew in his favorite place, which is upstairs in the dorm room with the most severely handicapped children.  He sat with Matthew in his lap; the blind child who clings to Drew for dear life.  Drew managed to hold Matthew and simultaneously stroke the cheek of Yolene sitting next to him.  Jean Robert played the violin and we all sang with tears in our eyes.  Then the two young Haitians performed "Alleluia", the song that Claire Valine taught them last November. "I heard there was a secret chord, that David played and it pleased the Lord...". Dieumen sang that song with joy on her face and deep emotion in her voice.

The sweat and tears combined on the Americans' faces as we shared this special birthday with Drew, who is the heart and soul of our ministry at St Vincent's

Here is a link to a  YouTube clip



St. Vincent's girls enjoying the sunglasses Vickie brought

Thursday, May 21, 2015

The Jeweler and the Dentist

The dental team: Phil Caldwell, Sherye Fairbanks and a Haitian dental student
The children at St Vincents have not had regular dental care since the earthquake in 2010.  The dental clinic and facilities were destroyed in the earthquake and have not been rebuilt.
On our last trip in November 2014, we brought a dental hygienist who screened many of the children and found lots of cavities and gum disease. So I was thrilled to find Dr Phil Caldwell, a dentist from North Carolina who has been to St Vincents before and agreed to come with our team.

Dr Caldwell put together an impressive network of local dental personnel, including the use of a private dental clinic for the week. He asked our team if someone would volunteer to be a dental assistant for the week, and two folks volunteered.  Hana, the daughter of Sonya from Red Thread Promise, and Tim Baker, a retired jeweler from St Marys Cathedral in Memphis.  Tim has been telling me all week about his daily adventures, and how much jewelers and dentists have in common.  Who knew?  Similar tools, fine hand work, diamond drill bits, etc.

Another example of how God brings the talents of many people together to care for these children.

Kids going to the dental clinic